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R33 CLUSTER IN THE SR20DET 510

June 03, 2015
by: jovial_cynic
My latest project with my 510 has been to get the instrument cluster from an R33 Skyline (RB25DET motor) into my car, and hooking it up to my SR20DET motor. I don't think anybody else has done this, and from the responses I've received when I've mentioned it, I don't think it's a popular modification. It's just not "period correct," as I've heard it said... which is odd, because the engine isn't exactly period-correct either.




Anyhow, I picked this instrument cluster because it has all the gauges that I like in one place without having to include a bunch of separate gauges. I especially like the boost gauge... although that particular gauge has been giving me a bit of trouble.

I looked all over the place online and found a few places where somebody has explained the wiring of the cluster, and at least one place that gave a rough explanation about how the boost sensor itself is wired, but I didn't find anything that spelled it out for me in a way that made sense.




So... between following all the traces on the back of the cluster, putting together the complete wiring diagram, I was able to actually put something together that should help me figure this thing out.




The image above is the FULL diagram with the boost gauge lines colored in so I could see what was going on. It's a 5mb+ image, so click at your own risk.




The odd thing is that after going over the diagram and the cluster for hours, I finally figured out that the diagram is wrong. The diagram and chart above spells it out a bit; the plug on the far-right is written in exactly backwards (instead of 1-to-12, it's 12-to-1). So, I put my own chart together and hopefully that makes it easier for me (and anyone else doing this) to figure the wiring out.



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GAS TANK UPGRADE

January 27, 2015
by: jovial_cynic
The stock 510 gas tank doesn't have a built-in fuel pump. There are some debates about the benefits of in-tank or external fuel pumps, but in the end, I think I prefer the in-tank pumps because they are quieter. And while it seems like extra work to have to pop open a tank to access the pump if anything goes wrong, I've messed with this one enough times to tell you that it's just a matter of pulling a few bolts. It's really not that big of a deal.


Cutting a proper hole into the top of the stock tank takes a steady hand. If you're going to use a plasma cutter, you MUST either fill the tank with water or flood it with an inert gas so you don't blow yourself up. Even the tinest bit of gas fumes can wreck your day or KILL YOU if you don't protect yourself.


I picked up a whole 1995 Honda Civic gas tank for $20 and cut the pump access off of it and welded it on top of the hole I cut out for the 510 tank. Again, because you are welding in a potentially deadly environment, either flood the tank with water or an inert gas to protect yourself. DON'T DIE doing this.


Once the pump access is welded on, bolting down the seal is easy. And all the wiring for the pump is right there on top.

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SR20DET FITMENT

January 27, 2015
by: jovial_cynic

The first part of getting an SR20DET into a 1971 Datsun 510 is (aside from actually acquiring one) is figuring out how to get the engine into the engine bay. It wasn't meant to be in there.


Problem #1 is that the stock 510 crossmember is backwards relative to the oil sump on the SR20 engine.


Cutting and flipping is a common option. I decided to cut and reinforce with some 1" square tubing I had sitting around. I don't know why.


Here you can see the crossmember attached to the car, but if you look closely at the left side motor mount, you can see something wrong.


The stock mounts don't line up with the SR20, so some modifications were necessary.


Specifically, I had to add some length to both motormounts to get it to stand off from the crossmember enough to fit. I also had to make sure that this didn't make the engine sit too tall to close the hood. We're good.


And here you can see it fitting up just nicely.

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SR20DET RELAY BOX

January 27, 2015
by: jovial_cynic
One of the tricks to getting an SR20DET motor into any car is to figure out the wiring, and building up (or buying) a relay assembly. I'm more of a DIY guy, so I figured I'd follow some diagrams and make one myself.

Here's the wiring diagram so you can do this yourself.


The parts are pretty simple. It's just 3 relays, a junction bar, and a box for fuses. If you really wanted to simplify things, you don't need the junction bar or the fuse boxes. You could wire everything direct and have a bunch of wires going everywhere, but I like things a little more tidy.


I also like seeing how tightly I can package things, so I stuffed everything into a cardboard box. The box I had was too big for my liking, so I cut it down and made it as small as I could.


I found a small computer power supply case that I gutted and stuffed the relay assembly into it. I have a fetish for metal boxes. I don't know why.


And this is where I tightened up all the wiring...


... and connected it to a proper pig-tail so I can disconnect it as necessary.


And this is the relay box, labeled and ready for install. Bolting it down grounds it to the frame of the car, and it works quite swimmingly.

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NEW SEATS

January 27, 2015
by: jovial_cynic
I've had several different seats in the car, none of which I've loved. This is probably because when it comes to the interior of my car, I'm cheap.

This latest version of seats came from a 1990 Nissan Sentra. The previous ones were from a Honda, and quite frankly, I wanted to keep all the parts in the "family," so to speak.





Not too bad. A little dirty, but they fit the car pretty nicely.

The front seat bracket was a bit of a pain, as they rails aren't level with one another. I had to use some square tubing to build up the rail so it would sit properly in the car.

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FINGER CHOPPING FAN BLADE

January 27, 2015
by: jovial_cynic
A couple of months back, I nearly had my pointer finger on my right hand chopped off by the plastic electric fan blade on my 510.

It's this one here if you don't want to follow the link:



I have promptly replaced it with a metal fan blade, ensuring that I won't stick my finger in the fan cage again. I'm not sure if my logic is any good, but the fan sure works well.

I've had this aluminum fan sitting around since I began working on 510s, and rather than going out and buying a new electric fan set, I decided to scavenge the motor off the plastic fan housing and fabricate a mount for the aluminum blades. This thing is probably very dangerous, so I've welded a cage for it. I also made some brackets so the fan housing can be directly mounted to the fan shroud, thereby providing some additional protection for my fingers.





This should keep the SR20 cool enough.

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COMPANION CUBE

September 22, 2014
by: jovial_cynic


Companion Cube, the size of a Rubik's Cube. Well, a little larger than a Rubik's Cube, but close enough.

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